IN THE SHADOWS

Yesterday, my wife and I and our priest toured the African American Museum in Washington D.C. This amazing institution stands in the shadow of the Washington Monument and in fact, in the shadow of American history itself. Every school child is made aware of our country’s complicit involvement in slavery, but details of our involvement and its continued effect on 15% of our population. Yet most of the details are undeniably hidden behind a shadowy screen of patriotic white pride. This museum gives visitors an extended peek behind the screen. 

Terms like Black is beautiful, Black lives matter,” and Black Power, can be discomforting to whites unfamiliar with the full panoply of events involving black Americans. Terms like "White Pride, White Power, and “White Supremacy, seem to be less onerous until one realizes that such phrases have always been the threatening norm to black citizens … to black victims. 

The African American Museum is a unique storehouse of knowledge giving visitors a broad, straightforward view of black history in our country. It puts into perspective, without blame or rancor, the suffering and accomplishments of those Americans once relegated to the back of the bus. It is a refreshing eye-opener and I encourage all Americans to experience it – particularly white Americans. 

The multistory structure itself is singular, swathed as it is in metal lattice representing the decorative ironwork fashioned by slaves in numerous Southern cities. It resembles a great native palace. Its three great stories reflecting the three-tiered crowns used in Yoruban art from West Africa. It is telling that the journey of black Americans is here told from the bottom up. 

My daughter, an accomplished stage manager, helped direct the installation of exhibit lighting in the upper stories. She advised us to begin our tour at the top and work or way down so as not to be overwhelmed by the misery and melancholy of the basement exhibits before moving upstairs. We went against her advice.As a historian and author, I am probably more well versed in the sad early history of the black experience than the average American. Still, I was curious how the museum directors would present their deplorable introduction to America. 

I was impressed. 

The focus on slave ships and the countries that sent them is particularly unnerving. I was most moved by the darkened room one can enter which simulates the hold below decks where storage compartments were crammed with human cargo. There, shadowy artifacts are on display while startling reminiscences of the middle passage are piped in over growling speakers. 

The floor plans are open and inviting. They follow a linear historical fashion, however the space between exhibits and the multidirectional halls allow one to navigate the crowds (it was crowded) and march off in any direction you like. We attempted to visit twice before only to find it was already totally booked for weeks on end. 

As I wandered the halls so packed with black and white sojourners – only 20% white, I couldn’t help overhearing black teens enlightened and delighted by and at times horrified by historical facts they were only just then learning. Made me wish more people with my skin color were there experiencing the same revelations. 

The painful, deplorable, slave history hidden in the dark bowels of the building’s basement give rise to the black accomplishments and influence on U.S. culture found in its upper stories. Art, literature, dance, acting, sports and entrepreneurial skill are on display. Culture, style, cuisine, and religious fervor are also on display. 

Separate displays feature Frederick Douglas, Sojourner Truth, Harriet Tubman, Booker T. Washington, George Washington Carver, Jesse Owens, Jackie Robinson, Mohammed Ali, Shirley Chisolm, Thurgood Marshall, Martin Luther King, and countless others. Once again, I was buoyed by the joyous reactions of my fellow black visitors as they learned for the first time, some of the unknown accomplishments of historical, black American heroes. 

Exiting when the building closed at 5:30 pm, we still had so much more to see, to read. I would say in the five hours we were there we saw only a quarter of the Museum’s displays. We’ll be back. When my priest asked what I was most taken with, all I could say at the time was, “All of it.” But in retrospect, I have to say two things stood out. 

The first being the words of random slaves dramatically recounting their horrific experiences over the sound system. The second being a clever display of the Greensboro lunch counter where visitors sit on diner stools at a long diner counter while watching black kids being bullied and beaten by police on a wide screen behind the counter. 

For you who have not yet made a pilgrimage to the African American Museum, be prepared. The museum is massive. The number of artifacts and the avalanche of information is overwhelming. The history is at times horribly depressing, but ultimately the museum’s message is one of perseverance and hope. 

It has taken centuries for white Americans to allow such a institution to be built, one that pays homage to those whom some call the forgotten Americans. This is a monument to the millions of unwilling Africans forced to endure the middle passage so that their bodies might be used to build fortunes, to build America. Having opened in the turbulent year of 2016, it was correctly situated on the national mall within sight of the White House where less than a decade ago, African Americans saw the fulfillment of what was believed to be an impossible dream, the election of a black president. 

America like most countries is growing and evolving. By looking back we can better look forward. A recent President said it best When I was still teaching I recall hanging his words on the door to my classroom. Still today I believe in the truth of his message. 

“YES WE CAN!”