ACW Trek Down South
My indulgent wife, Jenny, and I just just returned from a 3500 mile journey through the old Confederate states of Virginia (& the breakaway state of West Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Louisiana, Alabama, Georgia, and North Carolina) My objective was to visit many of the battle sites (and extraneous sites along the way) that I have written about but not visited. From the semi-restored ironclad USS Cairo in Vicksburg, MS, to the remote Louisiana river fortification - Fort Jackson to the remarkable Fort Gaines at the entrance to Mobile Bay, in Alabama we had such a grand educational tour - a lightning fast journey enlightening tour that occasionally left us confounded and saddened, but ultimately uplifted.
We were enlightened because we found amazing historical tidbits at nearly every stop. Things that at times made us scratch our heads as to Civil War Strategy and some of the imbecilic decisions made largely by political generals in the war. Another thing is the vastness of the war and its inevitable effect on civilians throughout the south. Another thing - the staggering amount of men and material employed and shuttled about. It is one thing to read about it and trace it on maps, quite another to follow the march of armies state by state and imagine the enormity of the organization necessary to pursue wholesale war across the south.
We were confounded because in every state we faced site closures. For a time I considered naming this narration: “The South is Closed.” After awhile we shook it off. There was allwaysl plenty to see even when visitor centers were closed and locked. Besides, good friends helped point the way to out of the way aspects. Our biggest befuddlement was in Thibidaux, Louisiana where we ate breakfast at a popular restaurant only to learn they had no grits. Imagine, just imagine a Southern restaurant running out of GRITS!
We were saddened by the enormity of the loss of life on both sides. Current estimate of ACW deaths is 620,000 confirmed deaths. Although some historians place the number at three quarters of a million or more, with over 60,000 amputations reported. And that just refers to the military. Noncombatants suffered as much or more. Know also that for every three that died in battle, five more died of disease. Then, there is the widespread destruction to consider - the ruined homes and businesses, so many liveliehoods shattered. This is not to overlook the plight of the enslaved, freed by the Emancipation Proclamation, yet held in thrall by the Southern elite and cowed even by Southern paupers. Throughout our trip I kept making mental comparisons to what was happening in the Ukraine and in the Middle East and all the wars between then and now. We have learned so very little over the centuries.
We were uplifted by the renowned Southern hospitality we encountered in every state all across the south. Of course the craft beer and local food cannot be overlooked - But Lord, the food - it was SO GOOD! Po-boys, barbecue, mustard greens, collard greens, hushpuppies,, biscuits ‘n gravy, beignets, gumbo, etouffee, catfish, frog legs - Mmmmmmmmmmmm! (An aside, we discovered Durham Gin Distillery in Durham, NC, next to the famous Blue Note Bar-B-Q Restaurant. Up to that point I despised Gin, but I did a tasting … bought four bottles!) The park rangers at every site bent over backward to make us welcome and answer questions. All of their explanatory films were top notch. The best of the lot was the last one we saw in the Petersburg Battlefield Visitor’s Center. Although the films we saw at the National WWII Museum were nothing to sneeze at.
The drive whetted my appetite to do it all over again.
I have so much more to say and pictures to show. I invite you to visit my FaceBook page to view my pics and narrative . John Poniske.com If we’re not friends - feel free to friend me.